Takhini Hot Springs, Yukon to Liard Hot Springs, BC: 436 miles, 50-62 degrees, 1500 feet elevation. (View in Google Maps)

I woke up at Takhini Hot Springs this morning, slept in a while, trying to decide if I should get up or not. I didn't have a horrible day planned (400 miles), but I knew I was running without my aux tank, and I wanted to stop for food at least once.

A short time later I heard rain on the tent. I was instantly wide awake, regretting not getting up earlier. I broke camp and left in 40 minutes- the rain was just a sprinkle, and didn't develop into much more.

I didn't plan on stopping in Whitehorse on my way through town- and I'm glad I didn't. I spent the first hour passing caravans of Californian RVers, replete with "I drove Top Of The World Highway!" bumper stickers. Good for you. Now, drive the speed limit or move out of the way. Semi trucks were impatiently waiting their turn to pass this clump.

From Whitehorse on, nearly the entire day would be a repeat of the Alaska Highway. It's scenic, but not in a postcard sort of way. I planned on getting gas at Laird Junction, which is where the Cassiar meets the Alaska Highway. I'd stopped there on my way up, so I knew pumps and such were there. No luck- there were signs on all the pumps that they were out of regular and premium. I decided not to try alchemy of mixing in diesel, so I gingerly continued 15 miles further to Watson Lake.

The first station at Watson Lake was also out of gas. This might not end well. I went until I found another station- they were out of premium but had regular. Fine by me. I was happy to fill up. As I was doing so, a fellow walked up with a gas can. I'm guessing he was surprised by the lack of gas, too.

I pulled out of the station, then pulled across the street and took pictures in front of the signpost forest. It's much larger than I was expecting- probably a couple hundred posts, each with at least 40 signs. Pretty neat, but impossible to photograph much. Still, I think it'll look cool.

I then went to look for somewhere to eat. In the process, I saw a gas station with two self-serve wash bays. I pulled in, used a couple cycles on the bike. At least I can see my oil cooler now, and I got a few layers of crud off. It still has plenty of bugs, the windscreen is still opaque, and it's still dirty, but the caked goo is gone.

I then went next door to eat at a little restaurant. Two guys (father and son?) pulled up on a VFR and ST1300. We ended up eating together- they've been touring the US for most of the summer, starting in Key West, going hope (Iowa) for a month, then coming up to Alaska. They were planning on going down Cassiar to Seattle, across Rainier and Helens, then up the Columbia River Gorge.

I was able to fill them in on some information- like lodging on the Cassiar (they were staying at motels exclusively). They had some questions about the Boeing tour in Everett, plus they were wondering if there was a Honda dealer in Seattle. Yeah, a few :-)

From there it was another 100 miles to Liard Hot Springs, where I was planning on stopping for the night. A flagger at a construction area told me to watch out for buffalo in the upcoming stretch- he was right. I ran across a single, then a big herd, then a smaller herd. The two herds were at the edge of the road- I elected not to stop very close, for very long, or to put the bike in neutral. The little baby buffalo cracked me up- they look like the world's shaggiest cows.

I also saw another bear in this stretch- number 4 of the trip. I chose not to stop for the same reason- I'd prefer not to be seen as dinner.

On to the hot springs by 5pm. I set up camp, soaked in the springs, then had a bite to eat. These are the worst mosquitos in quite a few days- and certainly the worst at my campsite in many days.

There are three or four Prevost RVs in the camp- I didn't really notice, but I thought the tow-behind vehicles seemed out of place- full-size, expensive SUVs. Things were even weirder when I looked through the windows- fancy table lamps, big TVs, etc. I haven't seen things like that for a while, I feel like I'm in a parallel universe.

I don't know what my plan is from here. I am thinking of going to Dawson Creek, then south to Prince George for the night, then home on the following day (Wednesday night). I'm getting pretty tired and sore from being on the road. Realistically, that cuts a day and 500 miles off the trip, which sounds nice.

Oh good, a bear just walked past. The camp hosts are going to scare it away, hopefully this isn't the last you hear from me.